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~ Jean Williams, Handweaver

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Author Archives: jeanweaves

The Pause Between the Warps

12 Wednesday Mar 2014

Posted by jeanweaves in Uncategorized, Weaving Inspiration

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Handwoven, Weaving

It’s happened again: I finished up the warps on both my looms at the same time. There’s a great sense of accomplishment when I unwind the newly woven cloth. What started out as cones of yarn is now a web of cloth, just about ready to use (after preshrinking, hemming, and ironing). While I’m finishing the fabric, I’m thinking about what’s next?

I’m a firm believer in lists and like a lot of weavers, have a “What to Weave Next” list. The list is constantly evolving.  What do I get excited about? What challenges me? What is an easy project to do after finishing those challenging ones? What have I been curious about, but never tried? What have I been putting off and should finally learn?

The “To Weave” list also includes what people have asked me about.  Sometimes someone will say “What I’ve really been looking for is…” On to the list it goes! What seems to be popping up in all the ads? What color is promoted at the home stores?

Often I’ll get side-tracked and will go off on a weaving tangent not on my list. That’s okay; that’s what creativity is all about. The tangent should lead to more ideas.

So what is on my list? Since I just finished color block placemats in tangerine, melon and strawberry, I’ll be weaving napkins to go with them.  The formal tablecloths from the big loom will probably get napkins as well, something more refined in finer thread.  The towel stash needs to be replenished for the spring and summer.  And the 2014 Color of the Year is Radiant Orchid (see http://www.Pantone.com) — guess what color will be showing up in the new warps?

What inspires you? What spurs you on to the next project? How do you decide what’s next? What’s on your list?

 

The Results are In!

17 Monday Feb 2014

Posted by jeanweaves in Doubleweave, Uncategorized

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Doubleweave, Finn Weaves, Handwoven

ImageThe Finnweave and doubleweave samples are finished and I learned a lot. It’s fun to try a new technique, all the while thinking about how I will use it in future projects. The Finnweave sample is on the left above. The sample on the right is doubleweave.

As a comparison, the Finnweave is threaded two by two: two threads of background, two threads of pattern, etc. Doubleweave is threaded one by one: one thread background, one thread pattern and so on. When weaving Finnweave, you pick up your design and throw the shuttle twice before you have to pick up the next row. In doubleweave, you have to pick up each row. That is the main reason Finnweave is considered faster to weave than doubleweave. Also in Finnweave, the diagonal lines are smoother than in the doubleweave. That may make a difference if you want to weave something with lots of diagonals. And while Finnweave is technically not reversible, the back side is still pleasing and usable. Doubleweave is completely reversible.

It took me a couple tries to figure out the Finnweave process. The green was my background color, pink the pattern color. So with every throw of the shuttle, I had to think about whether I needed the pattern to be horizontal (like the “stitching” along the bottom and top) or vertical (like the “stitching” along the sides). The pattern color is picked up on different rows depending on how it should look in the design. This slowed me down quite a bit and I had to unweave several mistakes.

The doubleweave sample went much faster. Perhaps it was because I’ve woven loom-controlled doubleweave, where the layers are interchanged with the treadles rather than picked up manually. Perhaps it was because I didn’t have to think about the horizontal or vertical pitch of the pattern thread. Whatever the reason, I enjoyed the weaving and went on to weave two other small samples of old graphed designs.

Now it is time to move on to other warps. But it will be interesting to plan how Finnweave and doubleweave will show up in projects to come.

Busting the Stash–continued

01 Saturday Feb 2014

Posted by jeanweaves in Uncategorized, Weaving Inspiration, Yarn Stash

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Weaving, Yarn Stash

The crinkly cotton towels are off the loom and waiting to be hemmed.  And they turned out very nice in spite of my earlier reservations.  Once before, a long time ago, I had mixed some strands of this yarn with other cottons in a towel and was dismayed when it shrank at a different rate than the rest.  In other words, I had a seersucker towel–not what I had in mind!  So the yarn sat for a very long time; I was avoiding it.  That, and I didn’t know if the darker shades were colorfast.  But this time, I did not mix it with anything else, and I washed it in hot water with a color fixative, followed by a regular wash.  The result was normal shrinkage and no color bleeding; very good.  Weaving can be an adventure and an experiment.

The heavy cotton/acrylic is still waiting to be warped, but it will be used this year.  It is a promise to myself.

And then there’s the Finnweave.  I’ve been looking up information on it so I can use the small balls of perle cotton left to me by another weaver.  She used it for Finnweave, but I have never tried that structure.  According to Alison Irwin in a January/February 1999 Handwoven issue, “Finnweave is a variation of doubleweave pick-up…”  She writes about both doubleweave pick-up (p. 36-39) and Finnweave (p. 40-43).

Say you want a cloth with two different faces, dark on the back and light on the front, and designs that alternate those colors.  In doubleweave pick-up, you manually pick up and alternate the dark and light threads to make the pattern.  You can do larger areas with loom-controlled doubleweave, but with pick-up, you can be creative and do things like sign your name and “draw” free hand. Draw your design on graph paper and follow row by row in changing the light and dark threads.

Finnweave exchanges pairs of threads rather than single threads, so it weaves faster.  You can pick up your pattern, weave two rows, then change the pattern, whereas with doubleweave, you have to pick up a new pattern after every row. Doubleweave is reversible; Finnweave is not, according to the articles. But Finnweave allows you to weave diagonal lines, whereas in doubleweave, those diagonals appear in stair steps.

This is intriguing and I will have to try samplers in both structures.

Busting the Stash

17 Friday Jan 2014

Posted by jeanweaves in Uncategorized, Weaving Inspiration, Yarn Stash

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Weaving, Yarn Stash

A couple weeks ago, I wrote about looking at my yarn stash and planning projects accordingly. So I have two batches of yarn that have been on the shelf for years–honestly! One is a heavy cotton/acrylic blend. I have several shades that remind me of orange and strawberry sherbet. My original plan was to weave sturdy block design placemats with it and I did weave some, but obviously not enough to use up the yarn. Time to revisit that plan!

The other yarn is a crinkly, thick and thin cotton novelty yarn in several shades of blue, nutmeg and natural. I inherited this yarn from another weaver several years ago. The balls were wound with two or three strands together; not my usual put-up, but with some patience, I’ve rewound it as singles. Because of the fiber and texture, I’m envisioning terry-like towels. We’ll see what comes off the loom.

My goal is twofold: first, I want to stretch myself to use what I have on hand. Accumulating more and more without using what’s there is inefficient and wasteful. Second, I need to make room for the finer perle cotton yarns I use most often, many cones of which are stacked in precarious places. It’s all part of the New Year clean-out.

After I finish with the heavy cotton/acrylic and the novelty cotton, there are several small balls of perle cotton that a friend had used for Finnweave and gave to me when she could no longer weave. What’s Finnweave, you ask? That’s for another blog!

Two Trains left the station traveling in opposite directions….

07 Tuesday Jan 2014

Posted by jeanweaves in Planning, Uncategorized

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Arithmatic, Weaving

Word problems. We all had to do them in elementary school. Some people I know can arrive at an answer before I even mentally map out what is going on. Just give me straight numbers and what you want done with them; that’s all I ask. Good old arithmetic!

I’ve been doing some arithmetic this week. I planning to weave a small table cloth. Let’s see, 48″ square sounds good. In order for the cloth to lay flat, I’ll need fine yarn. The yarns I have on hand need to be threaded 48 threads for each inch.

48″ x 48 threads per inch = 2304 threads

But how long do each of those threads need be? Okay, here’s a variable: If I’m going to all the trouble of threading 2304 threads, why make only one table cloth? (I have a pin from the Lunatic Fringe shop that says “Weave Long and Prosper”–sound familiar?) So in this case, I’m going to weave four table cloths. There are all sorts of conditions that come into play in planning a warp length but to cut to the chase, I’ll need 7.5 yards for each thread.

2304 threads x 7.5 yards each = 17,280 yards of warp

That’s a lot of warp! My next question is: do I have enough yarn on hand to do this? Each size of yarn has a standard weight per pound. The yarn I’m using comes to 8400 yards per pound. How many pounds will I need?

17,280 / 8400 = 2.057 pounds

But this is just for the warp, the threads that travel lengthwise from the front to the back of the loom. What about the weft, the yarn that crosses the warp? That, too, is variable and depends on how hard I beat it in and how much the woven cloth draws in, but a good guess would be to estimate the same amount of yarn for the weft as for the warp. So now how much yarn will I need?

2.057 x 2 = 4.114 pounds of yarn.

Good old arithmetic!

 

Happy New Year!

28 Saturday Dec 2013

Posted by jeanweaves in Planning, Uncategorized, Weaving Inspiration, Yarn Stash

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Weaving, Yarn

I hope all of you have had a joyful and peaceful holiday season with those you love. In our house, the holidays continue through January 6, so I’m still breathing balsam scent and eating cookies. The thoughts of what projects to start next are just tickling the back of my mind.

As I think about what to put on my looms next, the supply in house is the obvious place to start. January is a good time to look at the stash, those drawers and shelves of yarn that sparked my interest sometime in the past and now await fulfillment. How can I creatively combine the colors and fibers? What patterns will let those hues shine?

Among the cones I have purchased are others that I have inherited from weavers moving on to other things. Sometimes these yarns just don’t fit my style anymore and have languished on the shelf for who knows how long. If you have some of these, consider donating them to a local craft studio and fellow weaver. Maybe someone else is looking for just that fiber to finish a fabulous project.

Whatever your next project is, I wish you happy creating, and a Happy New Year! May you have a healthy and fiber-filled 2014!

When is a Towel Not a Towel?

11 Wednesday Dec 2013

Posted by jeanweaves in Towels, Uncategorized

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Handwoven, Towels

There is a familiar line we hear when talking to others about handwoven towels: “Oh it’s too pretty to use for dishes!” We laugh, but if you have to do dishes, why not do them with something pretty? Handwoven towels are absorbent, they are soft, they feel special, and are a pleasure to work with. But when is a towel not a towel? What are some of the other uses for a “towel”?

I have a collection of towels woven by friends of mine. They grace my coffee table. They cover my end tables. They accent the center piece for festive dinners. They line bread baskets. They make great hostess gifts. A friend wove one in a pattern from an early American weaving manuscript but with rich hues of plum, ruby, blue, burgundy, and gold. Another in my collection blends pastel colors of cotton and linen. There is the terra cotta towel with a natural accent border. And just recently, I purchased a delightful towel with dragonflies floating across the surface.

We like to weave towels. They are short projects and you don’t have to match one to another like placemats or napkins. You can warp a loom for 10 towels and weave a different pattern and color for each. And when we get tired of a draft, we can just thread a different one next time.

So next time you see a handwoven towel, remember all the places you can use it. And remember–they do dry dishes!

Creative Community

19 Tuesday Nov 2013

Posted by jeanweaves in Uncategorized, Weaving Inspiration

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Columbia Weavers & Spinners Guild, Textiles, Weaving

The past month has been a whirlwind of activity around our local Columbia Weavers and Spinners Holiday Exhibition and Sale. This was the 24th annual exhibition for us and a lot of energy goes into making it happen. A lot of energy comes out of it too!

Sale Table 2013

Creativity encourages more creativity! We always enjoy seeing what others in the guild are making and we joke about being our own best customers. One member will encourage another as we bring in towels, runners, scarves, rugs, and jewelry. Some have worked all year for this one event; for others, this is one exhibition among many. Regardless, it comes together for three days of delightful fiber fun! And we all come away with ideas and plans for our next project at the loom and spinning wheel.

Do you have a fiber event coming up in your area? Check it out for some unique gift ideas and support your local fiber artists!

What’s on the Loom?

04 Friday Oct 2013

Posted by jeanweaves in Scarves, Tencel, Uncategorized

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Scarves, Tencel, Weaving

In the “What’s on the Loom Now” department, I am experimenting with a new fiber I purchased this summer. Tencel has been around awhile but this is the first project I’ve woven with it.

Tencel is a registered trade name for a type of lyocell, which is similar to rayon. It is made from wood pulp and so is biodegradable and sustainable. Tencel takes dye very well, so the colors are vibrant and luscious. But it’s the feel that makes Tencel stand out. It is soft, silky, and drapable—perfect attributes for a scarf or shawl. You have got to feel this fiber!

The yarn I found this summer is space-dyed. One color blends gradually into another, then into another until it comes back to the original color. There wasn’t quite enough in that one skein to make the length of scarf that I wanted to make, so I combined it with a solid color. The trick then is to accentuate the blending colors and not cover them up with either the solid or the weave structure.

Twills are great for allowing a warp (the lengthwise yarn) to show up. Twills give us that distinctive diagonal line in weaves (think of your blue jeans). Tweak that a little by moving the twill line in segments and you have advancing twill. An advancing twill scarf in space-dyed Tencel just loves to snuggle around your neck. Take a look and tell me what you think! jeanweaves@gmail.comEggplant_Scarf

Announcing…!

17 Tuesday Sep 2013

Posted by jeanweaves in Etsy, Uncategorized

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Etsy, Weaving

I am happy to announce the opening of my on-line shop on Etsy.com!

Each item in the shop began with fiber and a design. I tossed colors around to see which ones complemented each other. Then I measured the yarns and threaded the looms, treadled the warp until complete, cut off the fabric, washed, hemmed and pressed it.

You will find several towels, some placemats, napkins, and a few scarves. More will follow as new items are finished, so check back often. Simply go to Etsy.com/shop/JeanWeaves for more information.

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